Dhaulagiri Expedition (8167m/26,795ft)
Dhaulagiri Expedition is the foreboding peak climbing in Nepal. The first successful summit was not until 1960. Dhaulagiri’s sheer size is unparalleled to any other peak. It rises over 7000m over the Kali Gandaki Valley and is 30km long, which by any standard is an impressive statistic. The majority of ascents to date makes via the first ascent route known as the “Normal Route” on the mountain. There have also been other ascents that have to create from almost every direction.
The massif Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and 2 faces in South and Western aspects. Each rise 4000m from their respected base camps. Dhaulagiri has 5 summit peaks: Dhaulagiri I is (8167m/26,795ft) Dhaulagiri II (7751m/25,430ft) Dhaulagiri III (7715m/25,311ft) Dhaulagiri IV (7661m/25,135ft) Dhaulagiri V (7618m/24,992ft) Surrounding the massive 8000m peak is: Churen Himal Main (7371m/24,183ft) Gurja Himal (6342m/20,807ft) Putha Hiunchuli (7246m/23,772ft) Junction Peak (4235m/13,894ft).
Everest Expeditions Nepal operate the summit Dhaulagiri expedition in the spring and autumn seasons with full board and Dhaulagiri base camp logistic services. We offer services to groups or single participants. Satori Adventures always provides safe and secure mountaineering in a trusting and friendly environment. We provide professional, supportive, and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the advanced base camp of Dhaulagiri through Darbang by bus, a trek through Dharapani, Muri, Bagar, Italy base camp, Japanese camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp. Satori Adventures provides a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, climbing documentation, logistics, airfare, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC, we organize logistics to provide all required accommodation and food.
Dhaulagiri Advanced Base Camp (4748m/15,577ft):
Everest Expeditions Nepal always operates the Dhaulagiri expedition in both the autumn and spring seasons. We usually run the trip from the usual route “Northeast Ridge), but we will run the Dhaulagiri journey from the Southeast, Southwest, and the Northwest. Groups requesting these options need to be a minimum of 5-6 people in a team.
The approach starts south of Dhaulagiri, trekking through the Majhangdi Khola, the gorge between the Dhaulagiri I & II around the mountain’s North Face. Base camp usually set up across from the Eiger, a steep rock tower that separates the North face from the Northeast spur. The Eiger is notorious for producing avalanches. The first part of the climb consists of a long trek up the icefall that starts at the Eiger’s foot and goes up towards the saddle between Dhaulagiri and Tukche-Ri. From there, the climbers venture on to the actual Northeast ridge for the first time.
Dhaulagiri Camp I (5450m/21,000ft) 4-5hrs:
Once you have reviewed the basic and advanced training from your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I(5450m/21,000ft). In this section of the climb, you will encounter mixed terrain. The first section of the ridge is known as Jacobs Ladder and is a moderately technical limestone and snow climb. Nowadays, the top of the ladder forms camp II location, but the 1960 expedition had set up an intermediate camp near the top of the icefall. Before the glacier section, you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs, and a moraine. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about two hours and requires fixing rope for almost 200m at a slope of 35-40º.
Dhaulagiri Camp II (6400m/20,997ft) 2½-3hrs:
The climbing from camp I to camp II is the intermediate section of the route and ascends ice and few mixed climbing sections. Comparing with other centers, the distance between base I and camp II is safer and more comfortable. Here you will encounter the heart of the ice and snow. The first section is just slogging over snow for about two hours, and then you meet several steep areas of blue ice at 35-40º slope and extends for50-60 meters, these sections do not require a ladder. For most people, this is the crux of the route. Camp II lies above the snowy terrace.
Dhaulagiri Camp III (7400m/24,278ft)4-5hrs:
Camp II to camp III is the long-distance of 1000m/3,281ft. Between camp II and camp III, 100% route need to be fixed the like by Sherpa climbing guide. This section for most climbers feels more comfortable and safe because of most of the routing fix. This section is not to take lightly, the climbing is on sustained slopes, and there is exposure to cold and wind. However, there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section in autumn, making it feel hot. You have to climb about 4 hours along blue ice and snow on a 35-45º slope in this climbing section. This section is a little dangerous in the spring season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice, making the section avalanche prone. That is why Satori Adventures advises our clients to climb in the autumn season rather than spring.
Dhaulagiri Summit (8,167m/26,795ft) 16-17 hrs:
Summit day is the primary goal of the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid between 11:00-01:00 is. If all goes well, they reach the summit between 7:00-10:00 am. Below the prominent peak is a false summit. The central panel arrives via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp III from the point and another 3 hours to get to camp II for an overnight stay. The route requires 400m of fixed rope above center III below the serac, another 400m of fixed rope above the serac and below the false summit, another 100m. So we require almost 900m of rope above camp three to summit on a 35-50º slope. Most of the sections are blue ice and snow.
The climbing is not technical in the lower divisions; as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls, the route becomes increasingly tricky. The climb passes through the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the actual meeting for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Friendship World Trek & Expeditions Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail, and make every effort to help the group reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.
Facts of the Trip
Highest access:8167m (26,795ft)
First Ascent: Swiss-Austrian team, May 13, 1960
Duration:46 typically Days
Group Size:02-10 People per group
Co-ordinates:28°41’48”N 83°29’42”E
Location:Dhaulagiri Himal
Country:Nepal
Airport:Kathmandu (KTM)
Departure From:Kathmandu (KTM)
Grade:AD/Scottish Grade IV
Accommodation:Five star hotel in Kathmandu
Meals:B/B plan in Kathmandu & B,L,D in during Driving and climbing period
Transportation:Car, Flight, Tourist bus
Best season:Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Major Activity:Trekking/Mountaineering
Include Activity:Side tour to Pokhara & Kathmandu
Culture:Gurung, Thakali, Magar
Mode of Travel:Camping
Climbing route:Northeast Ridge
Himalayan sights:Mt. Annapurna, Mt. Putha Hunchuli, Mt. Machhapuchhre (Fishtail)
Itinerary
05th April/ Day 01 Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1350m/4,429ft). Transfer to hotel for overnight stay.
06 April/Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.
07 April/Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) 6hrs.Lodge accommodation.
08 April /Day 04: Drive from Pokhara to Darbang (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs Lodge accommodation.
09 April /Day 05: Trek from Darbang to Phaliya Gaon (1850m/6,070ft) 6 hrs.Tea house/camping accommodation.
10 April /Day 06: Trek from Phaliya Gaun to Muri.(1850m/6,068ft) 3 hrs. Tea house/camping accommodation.
11 April /Day 07: Trek from Muri to Boghara (2080m/6,823ft) 4 hrs. Tea house/camping accommodation.
12 April /Day 08: Treks from Bagar to Dobhan Kharka (2520m 8,266ft), Tea house/camping accommodation.
13 April /Day 09: Trek from Doban Kharka to Sallaghari (3100m/10,170ft) Tea house/camping accommodation.
14 April /Day 10: Trek from Sallaghari to Italian Base Camp (3660m/12,005ft). Camping accommodation.
15 April /Day 11: Rest and acclimatization day at Italian Base Camp before pass.
16 April /Day 12: Trek from Italian base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4750m /15,584ft).
17-18 May/Day13-44: Climbing Period Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795ft)
19 May /Day 45: Preparation to return and clean up the base camp.
20 May /Day 46: Trek from Dhaulagiri base camp to Yak Kharka(4930m/16174ft) Camping accommodation.
21 May /Day 47: Trek from Yak Kharka to Tukuche (2590m/8,496ft) Drive to Tatopani(1190m/3,904ft).
22 May /Day 48: Trek from Tatopani to Beni (830m/2,723ft.) Drive to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus. Request hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
23 May /Day 49: Free and rest day at Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.
24 May /Day 50: Transfer to Kathmandu airport for final departure.
Autumn Itinerary 2023
03 Sep/Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu airport (1350m/4,429ft). Transfer to hotel for overnight stay.
04 Sep/Day 02: Preparation, briefings, last minute shopping and permit formalities.
05 Sep/Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara (950m/3,116ft) 6hrs.Lodge accommodation.
06 Sep/Day 04: Drive from Pokhara to Darbang (1110m/3,641ft) 5 hrs Lodge accommodation.
07 Sep/Day 05: Trek from Darbang to Phaliya Gaon (1850m/6,070ft) 6 hrs.Teahouse/camping accommodation.
08 Sep/Day 06: Trek from Phaliya Gaun to Muri.(1850m/6,068ft) 3 hrs. Teahouse/camping accommodation.
08 Sep/Day 07: Trek from Muri to Boghara (2080m/6,823ft) 4 hrs. Teahouse/camping accommodation.
09 Sep/Day 08:Treks from Bagar to Dobhan Kharka (2520m 8,266ft), Teahouse/camping accommodation.
10 Sep/Day 09: Trek from Doban Kharka to Sallaghari (3100m/10,170ft) Teahouse/camping accommodation.
11 Sep/Day 10: Trek from Sallaghari to Italian Base Camp (3660m/12,005ft). Camping accommodation.
12 Sep/Day 11:Rest and acclimatization day at Italian Base Camp before pass.
13 Sep/Day 12:Trek from Italian base camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4750m /15,584ft).
14-11 Oct/Day 13-40: Climbing Period Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m/26,795ft)
12 Oct/Day 41: Preparation to return and clean up the base camp.
13 Oct/Day 42: Trek from Dhaulagiri base camp to Yak Kharka(4930m/16174ft) Camping accommodation.
13 Oct/Day 43: Trek from Yak Kharka to Tukuche (2590m/8,496ft) Drive to Tatopani(1190m/3,904ft).
14 Oct/Day 44: Trek from Tatopani to Beni (830m/2,723ft.) Drive to Kathmandu (1350m/4,429ft) 10 hrs. Transportation provided by tourist mini bus. Request hotel accommodation in Kathmandu.
15 Oct/Day 45: Free and rest day at Kathmandu. Farewell celebration dinner with cultural program in the evening.
16 Oct/Day 46: Transfer to Kathmandu airport for final departure.
Full Board Service Cost (Includes)
- To ensure your safety and avoid the natural panic of people entering a new destination for the first time, Everest Expeditions Nepal provides pick-up and drop services from international and domestic airports on your arrivals and departures.
- Representatives of Everest Expeditions Nepal will be waiting for you on arrival at both domestic and international airports with a Satori banner with your placard so that you can easily find our person. Everest Expeditions Nepal identity card will accompany the person for your confirmation.
- According to the above Dhaulagiri Expedition climbing schedule, Everest Expeditions Nepal will arrange four nights demanded category (from tourist star to five-star) of hotel accommodations in Kathmandu.
- Everest Expeditions Nepal will provide experienced, and government authorized (licensed holder) high altitude trekking/ climbing Sherpa guide (Expedition leader) during the trekking and climbing.
- Surface transportation will only be included during the trekking and major city for members as per the scheduled itinerary.
Full Board Service Cost(Excludes):
- Kathmandu is Nepal’s capital, and since this place offers high quality and delicious food from different countries and groups, we were hoping you could taste the food you like. For that reason, during your stay in Kathmandu, you will have to arrange lunch and dinner (except farewell dinner) by yourself.
- Suppose you want to take any packed food, snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, and carbonated soft drinks, any types of alcohol, cigarettes, chocolates, and nutria-bars during the trek. In that case, you have to buy it yourself as a customer often requires these items during the trekking. There’s no guess on how much and will take by the client and its cost.
- Expenses are incurred towards personal nature trekking, climbing equipment, laundry expenses, tips, landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phones, and the internet service is not included in the package. You have to pay for it yourself when you use it.
- Personal climbing equipment is one of the significant factors for your safe and successful climbing. So you have to arrange all your personal climbing equipment brand and quality on your own.
- Mountaineering is, in itself, a risky and adventurous activity that always takes place in remote areas. So, safety is the primary factor for us. Therefore, you have to arrange your travel insurance covering the cost of emergency rescue, medical treatment, medical tests, and hospitalization before you arrive for the trip to Nepal.
Climbing Gears Listing
Boots, Crampons, Gaiters
1. Light hiking boots
2. 8000m climbing boots
3. Gaiters
4. Crampons (step-in bindings preferred)
Climbing Tools
1. Ice Axe: (standard; around 65-70 cm, depending on height)
2. Seat harness
3. Locking carabineers : 6 (Automatic locking type with large pear shape)
4. 2 folding- ski pole
Technical Clothings
1. Polypro or Capaline long underwear (4sets)
2. Pile jacket and pants (pants must have full separating side zips)
3. GoreTex shells (top and bottoms, bottoms must have full separating side zips)
4. Down jacket (medium & heavy weight)
Mitts & Gloves
1. Light synthetic gloves – 3pr (Capaline or polypropaline)
2. Wool (or pile) mitts and Gor-Tex overmitts
Socks
1. Wool or pile socks (6pr light liners, 4pr heavy liners)
Headgear
1. Head lamp (spare bulbs and batteries)
2. Glacier – sun glasses
3. Wool or pile hat
Sleeping
1. Sleeping bag (expedition quality, rated to -15 & 40F)
2. Sleeping pads (2)
Camping
1. Backpack: Internal frame pack 5,000 cu.in.
2. Pee bottle (one-liter large mouth)
3. Water bottles (2 one-liter large mouth)
4. Sunscreen (maximum block)
5. Lip sunscreen
Traveling
1. Large duffel bag for transporting all your gear at airports and on pack animals.
2. Toiletry bag
3. Travel clothes
4. Personal first aid kit
5. Small day pack: for trekking days (optional)